Battambang is Cambodia's second city with a population of about 80,000. It is a nice provincial town divided by the Sangker river. A large number of NGO's working in the northwest of the country have their offices here. There is a big central market surrounded by the towns main shops. Here you will also find the stalls of the moneychangers, just look around for the glass cases with stacks of Riel notes.
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At the north side of town an old steam engine and some railway carriages stand on tracks long in disuse. All parts made of precious metals have vanished, and some squatter families have taken over the cars as their homes. Some steam locomotives still in working order are rumoured to be kept in Phnom Penh, waiting for better days.
The best way to get to Battambang is by air. Royal Air Cambodge has flights about two times a week from Phnom Penh. A ticket costs about US$ 45 (1997). Book a few days in advance to be sure of a seat. Well, if anything is sure about the workings of RAC, that is. The airport is about 1.5 km south of the town. There are also buses and taxis to and from the capital several times a day. The road to Phnom Penh, National Route Nr. 5 is pretty bad all year round, so prepare for a bumpy ride and buy an extra seat. It will take a day or two for your spinal column to get back in shape as car shock absorbers last less than a week on this road. Taxis leave from the north side of the Central Market building in Phnom Penh and will deliver you near the main market in Battambang. The trip is a bit less than 300 km and will take most of the day. From Phnom Penh there may also be trains going to the north. This is not advisable, and is most of the time forbidden for tourists.
In the city centre you can find a few reasonable hotels and guesthouses. Most are located in the vicinity of Central Market.
