Tech Tips

1.) Tyres.

You can use the Pirelli P-Zero NERO tyres in stead off the originally used P-Zero Asymetrico's. ( not for sale anymore for the SZ/RZ ).
Sadly the P-7000 is not longer available,.. it was a very good alternative for the Asymetrico's and they did last much longer. After having contacts with some engeneers from Pirelli in the Netherlands and in Germany ( they did know about the SZ and RZ !! ) I got an excellent advise,.. The P-Zero Nero's would be the best alternative. We testet them in several weather ecc. ecc. conditions and indeed they are SUPER on the SZ and RZ !!

And so the originally used P-Zero-Asymetrico's could look like after a good afternoon at the track,... or after 8.000 - 10.000 km. normal street use,.... if they where bought NEW !!!!

Sometimes a new owner tells me proudly: "Wow,..... I found an SZ with only 3000 km's on the clock and even the tyres are still with 8 mm. profile and looking like new".

Be WARNED,..... !!!!! more than 10 years old P-Zero-Asymetrico's can look like those on the pics. even after a few months normal street use, they can explode spontaneously and often the inside of those tyres is rotten to upto the metal harnas !!!! Alfa Romeo did send in those days a special bulletin to the dealers to change after at the most 5 years those tyres and also that it is NOT allowed to repair them with a rubber plug ecc. Those tyres are life threatening certainly in the wet !!! Trow them away or your car will end on the scrapyard as most SZ / RZ's wich such old tyres before !!!!

Also an other WARNING is in place,.... NEVER EVER !!! replace the original metal valves in the wheels by normal rubber ones !!!! They can pop out spontaniously when driving the car hard ( circuit ) or under very hot weather circumstances

For me the original wipers where not long enough, also they did not do their job very good, so I tried several things on my first SZ and after some experiments I came up with the following solution and that worked well, also for many other SZ drivers all over the world who changed the wipers also.

In stead of the original windscreen wipers you can use the Bosch 480 S wipers - Bosch part number: 3397118541 ( In the UK called 19S ). They are 3 centimeters longer, so taller persons will have a better view. Also the left wiper does have a little spoiler that prevents "lifting" at higher speeds.

a.) The front "Alfa Romeo SZ / RZ" brake discs you could also buy from Brembo's,..but also not available anymore, the Brembo id. number was: 09.4984.10 . Also there were disks from Breco ( exact the same as Brembo, made by Brembo at the same productionlines as the Brembo's.. but sold via other channels, under the name BRECO ) id. number front disks: BS 8023 - 60552375, rear disks: BS 8024 - 60552111, but also not available anymore. Sometimes traders offer old stock and there are also some "after sales" possibilities.

b.) The 23 mm. Master brake cylinder for the SZ / RZ is no where for sale anymore,... I still have a few repairkits in stock, but if you do not have bigger brakes on the SZ, you can also use the 22 mm. from the 75. If you use 6 pots brake calipers than it is even better to take a 25 mm. master brake cylinder as the flued displacement is better.

c.) The brake compensator ( brake force distributor sitting next to the master cylinder ) often causes problems on cars that where stored for a long time. You can carefully open it and repair it. ( officially not allowed, so be very careful and do not attempt if not acquainted with brake systems ) those items are not for sale also anymore and the ones from the 75's etc. have a different part number, they do fit,.. but probably divide the braking power in a different way.

d.) Also the vacuum valve, placed on the inlet manifold can cause problems. Often because the cars have not been used for a long time the valve sticks,...so your brake booster will not give much / non assistance anymore. Replacing or cleaning the valve is a good idear to start with if the brake feel is not very good it only cost a few euro and still available. On later series of the Alfa Romeo 75 ecc. this valve has been replaced by a seperate valve that is mounted in between the hose going to the brake booster.

Than now how / what has been done:

After having had many problems with the metal vacuum valve placed on the inlet manifold, Alfa Romeo decided on later cars to replace it by a plastic one, mounted in between the hose going to the brake booster. The valves with the part numbers: 60501691 ( used on the 164, 75 and 33 ) or 60543892 ( used on the 75 and 33 ) where used in stead of the metal one.
We made a modification with the plastic valve also on an SZ, and to our surprise the feeling in the pedal and the assistance while braking improved also.

How to make the mod: ( see pictures )

Take off the metall valve,... drill a hole trough that valve. Be sure that every metal part from the valve has been drilled out and clean the inside from the metal casing very carefully. Than put it back on place, cut the original hose in half and place the plastic valve in between... !!! ATTENTION !!!!,... there is an arrow on the plastic valve and that arrow has to point into the direction of the engine ( old modified valve ) because it only works in one way. Put two extra clamps over the hose in front and behind the valve.
Start the engine,..let it run a few minutes,... press and release the trottle and the brakes while standing,.. than carefully make your first testdrive.
If all went fine, than try an emergency brake and you will notice that you still have to press the pedal with some force as before, but that the brakes will react more agressive.
If you want to be sure that you can go back to the old situation as before the mod. it would be wise to buy a new metal valve and a special hose together with the new plastic valve. Than you can drill-out the old metal valve,.. use the new hose and keep the original parts aside.

f.) If you are taking the car on a track it is best to have a heat protection cover around the brake master cylinder etc. and to use high quality racing braking flued, like ATE Blue Racing for instance. Also a good idear is it to remove the litts mounted at the front mudguards ( wich allow access to the indicators, or to remove the complete mud guards ) wich allows cool air from the frontbumper air intakes to reach the brakes. It is also possible to duct air to the left and right side callipers from the frontbumper, trough hoses coming from the left and right side from the front bumper, trough those holes in the mudguards.

g.) Several race drivers all over the world also have as hobby car an SZ / RZ in their collection, and they take it onto the tracks also. Often they drive up front even with the original brakes ( Brembo ),.... Most people do not like the original brakes due to the poor "feel", but according to most racing drivers the brakes are not at all bad.

h.) If you like to upgrade your brakes and have checked the above suggestions, than is our experience after testing a LOT of stuff that in the orginal calipers the pads from "HAWK" ( HP+ HB 180 ) are very good for street and track. Other brands of pads are maybe good on the track,.. but it is advisable to change them if using the car normally, because they often perform poorly when the brakes are cold.

i.) Brake calipers... we have tried several possibilities, ( also the Tarox 6 pots set, but not satisfactory at all, certainly not on the track ).

The most satisfying till now are the 4 pots calipers from AP, with bigger, grooved and drilled discs and special metal reinforced hoses. ( see tuning section of the page ). AP 4 pots brakes where also used on the former trophy racers ( some even used the standard brakes ) and several SZ / RZ owners all over the world have also mounted them allready. They fit in the original wheels.

Also the Alfa Romeo GTA calipers ecc. as shown under the "Tuning" topic seems do to their job very good. Only problem is that they do not fit in the original 16 inch wheels.

We did not test the 4 pots brembo mod.... yet. but I am interested in the experiences from drivers who have them on their SZ/RZ.

j.) Rear brake calipers... Not available via Alfa Romeo anymore since several years. Also for the 75 hard to find new ones, but there are companies selling re-newed Alfa Romeo 75 rear calipers. You can use those also. You have to take the spacers out of the original calipers and install them in the re-newed calipers.

It is also possible to get an new aftermarket spacer-set, but not neccesary if the old spacers are still in a good condition.

k.) The rubber flexible brake lines to the callipers are after 20 years normally due to replacement. Replacing them by "metal-flex" brake lines will give also an improvement and a much "harder" pedal. In some countries those metal flex brake lines are forbidden.

A common problem that many SZ's and even RZ's have is blistering / micro blisters ( like rain drops ) under the paint. It was a production problem with the modar parts. The only solution is sanding the paint off completely, and than having a new layer of paint over the bare shell. It is no guarantee that the problem will not come back,..altough - if it does - it will be less than before. In the UK is one guy the "champion of blisters",..he has ones from more than 1 cm. big !! I never ever saw them in that size myself. If you have the car repainted, then do not risk to take out the windscreens, and be carefull taking out the rubber/plastic profiles,..... all are not available anymore.

The color of the SZ is Rosso Alfa 130 Duo Tone.
The color of the grey roof is according to an SZ owner - Mr. S. Schwittek - Grigio Scuro, made by PPG number 487533/1. Seems that the same colour was used on the front bumper and side skirts from the Alfa Romeo 164 QV.
Alfa Romeo's colour number seems to be Grigio Scuro AR 633.

The trick is to make the transparant top layer as less shiny as possible ( 50% transparent paint and 50% stuff to make this transparent paint less glossy,.. the paintshop will know what to do,.... I hope ! )

One SZ was made in the color black, it was the personal car from Dr. Andrea Zagato. Also it seems that a few SZ's where painted yellow and sold to Japan.
The RZ was available is three colors, red, yellow ( PPG 259 Giallo Ginestra ) and black (PPG 601 Nero - two coats ). Three RZ's were made in the color silver and one in the color metallic white.

The suspension of the SZ makes a sort of clicking, squeaking noises, this seems to be a normal condition and is nothing to worry about. From what I have heard it is due to the original design and that it is caused by misalignment between shocks and suspension parts.

a.) Alfa Romeo itself provides also a solution and my experience is that this will solve the problem. If you click here, you will see some technical drawings etc. Do you want more information, please mail me !

How to mount the teflon washers from the "anti rattle kit":

If you want to see a larger picture, click the thumbnail .

If you replace the bottom of the shock it is a good idear to put also some grease into the "saucer" at wich the shocks bottom is mounted.

b.) Another - more time related probable cause - of the squeaking rear end, wich we discovered for the first time in 2011:

Because of the hydraulic levelling system, the angle between the shock absorbers and the suspension components to which they are fitted, changes slightly when moving the car up/down. Consequently, KONI had to design the system in such a way, allowing this angle to change, without compromising the performance of the suspension.

They therefore fitted the rounded bottom end of the shock absorber into a matching metal cup (so in fact they created a ball joint refer to the drawing), allowing the shock absorber to slightly change angle. Between the rounded end of the shock absorber and the cup, grease was injected and held in place by a rubber dust cover.

The squeaking could be caused by the grease hardening over the years, or water entering a damaged dustcover, allowing the metal surfaces of the cup and the shock absorber to touch.

All that is required is dismantling the bottom end of the shock absorber, clean the surfaces of the rounded end of the shock absorber and the cup, grease it and if necessary fit a new dust cover.

All this can be done easily at the same time when mounting the teflon washers ( techtip a. )

c.) If the "anti rattle kit" ( 2 specially made teflon washers ) does not cure the problem, the noise may be caused by the uniball in the front of de-dion rear axle Those kits are not available anymore,.but I still have a few in stock,.. they contain the uniball-housing,..the uniball, 2 spacers and a clip.

d.) Other possibilities are noises that come from the top of the springs,...spray a lot of teflon spray or alike on the top of the spings and pray that the noises will disapear.

e.) And another cause can be a hammering noise on the boot floor, wich is the metal collar from a hydraulic hose behind the spare wheel in the boot. The collar normally is mounted under a rubber clip,..but often that rubber insert slides away.

f.) There can also be an other kind of noises, like the ones coming from bad rear wheel bearings / axle ends or differential.
Bad bearings often can be found at very low milage cars wich stood still for a long time. A bad differential almost never happens.

g.) Plus an other kind of noise,..sounding like "whiiiiii...." can be caused by a bad fuel pump.

This section is aimed at all drivers of the Alfa Romeo R.Z. Zagato. Since the body panels are made of Modar, a special kind of plastic, you would not expect this car to rust at any outside spot. In fact, there is one critical location that in most cases accommodates rust. The location in questions is the rabbet underneath the roof cover. Open the roof cover and carefully remove this gasket that you find on top of the rear fender. The reason for a possible rust nest there lies in a construction fault: First of all, water hardly is able to disappear from this place. Consequently the water moves underneath the gasket where it gets into contact with the rabbet. In addition to that the rear carpet is not only fixed with screws but also with adhesive tape that sticks under the gasket onto the rabbet.

Therefore the water does not only stay underneath the gasket but also under the tape -after a couple of years the chemical reaction will create rust. If this location is checked in treated in time, further damage can be avoided Since there is only limited space around this rabbet, it is very difficult and time consuming to get rid of the rust. The best thing to do is to use a screwdriver and remove the rough rust as good as possible. Make sure that after this treatment no further rust remains in the gap between rabbet and fender. Then a rust converter should be used. Very good experience was gained with "Fertan". It is an easy to use, non aggressive rust converter, which should be applied with a brush. Let it work over night or even better for 48 hours and the rabbet is absolutely rust free. It is now ready for a layer of paint underneath the outermost layer. Make sure that before fixing the gasket all rests of rust sticking on there are eliminated.

Now your R.Z. is protected for many years at this dangerous, potential rust spot.

Thanks to Jass Ramezan for mentioning this problem.

a.) After turning the key,.. sometimes nothing happens,... often even no click ! Than after waiting for some time and a next try it may start,..... but often several "tries" are neccesary,.... Your dealer / mechanic could not solve it for you till now.... !!!

Several SZ / RZ's do have this problem and is not due to a bad battery or the starter motor etc., but is due to the wire from the contact to the starter motor being too thin,....
When the engine heats up the engine bay, than the wires will get warm and that causes a even higher resistance in the cables than with a cold engine, causing the starting problem with a warm engine,... an other problem is that after the years also the starter is even a bit more critical,.. asks for a bit more power to turn the engine etc....
THAT is the cause of this problem. It has also been noticed that SZ's or RZ's with only a few miles on the clock have similar issues. I resolved the problem at my SZ now and I can start with any battery old or new, even with the airconditioning and all the other users on,..... cold engine,.. warm engine all not a problem anymore,.... 15 minutes work... and a relay from a few euro will do the job....

b.) It is also possible that the relais from the injection system are defect. They are located if you look under the bonnet at the outer left side of the engine bay. Probably not for sale via Alfa Romeo anymore,..but the Bosch numbers are for the outer left one: 0332014112 and for the right side one: 0332014113.

c.) Kindly Jamie Porter also gave the next extra info on the "hot starting" topic. The starter motor is running in this case, but engine does not start.

Jamie Porter: With regard to hot starting it is also necessary to check the fuel holding pressure in the system as if it falls off to quickly the car will take ages to hot start.

d.) The engine stops / dies at speed and refuse to restart until cold.
This problem can be caused by corrosion on the coolant temperature sensor connections which creates a high resistance causing the ECU to interpret this as no need for fuel, and the engine would die and only restart when the engine got cold (the resistance would fall).

a.) The computer is under the carpet at the passenger side. Many SZ / RZ drivers are looking to get more power. For a nice price Squadra Tuning is offering an alternative chip. It is installed allready in many SZ / RZ's all over the world and till now I never have heard of any problems. For test results, comments ecc..... click here

b.) Codes / Alternatives ecc.
A lot of "interesting" stuff is written on forums etc.... but this seems to be the whole story,.....
For the SZ / RZ is used the Bosch Motronic computer code 4.1
ECU code is: Bosch: 0261200141
Chip used is: DIL 2827 C 256

c.) !!! In 2011 we discovered that also the Alfa Romeo 164 3.0 V6 12v computer ( from 1988 till 1991 ) was used in - probably - several SZ's !!!

It has the ECU code: 0 261 200 117, but behind that number it has a little sticker with the checksum code for the SZ, wich is BF43. Also that same checksum number has been written on the chip itself.

My latest SZ also had the 164 ECU and I am for 100% sure that it never has been swapped. The car runs super on it, even with the original SZ chip I could manage a top speed of 275 km/h. with this car. To be more specific, from all SZ's I owned, this car was the fastest one. Maybe also the differences as explained above are not the result from Alfa Romeo experimenting with chips / camshafts, but the result of the use of the 164 ECU or it is only a coincidence that some cars run better, have more HP etc.

e.) If you are not the first owner of the car it might be a good idear to check the distributor rotor arm. The SZ / RZ has an electronicly arranged rev. restrictor, but older types of 75 etc. used a same type of rotor arm BUT with a mechanically rev-restrictor build in. Those restrictors can come in earlier as normal for the SZ / RZ. So IF the distributor rotor arm on your car has a mechanical restrictor, than you can better replace it by an un-restricted one.

a.) From most SZ / RZ's the antenna does cause problems, an alternative antenna is the black antenna from Hirschmann. HIT AUTA 5091 SW, number 921010-001. If you swap the Hirschmann outside trim with the original one from the SZ than you will see no difference.
b.) The audio-filter, mounted under the rearshelf where the speakers are can misfunction, often caused by corroded contacts. You can take away the rear shelf,..than disconnect the filter and clean the contacts. ( you can see the connector for the filter sitting under the shelf if you take a look from the boot to under the shelf ).
If there is a bad contact it sometimes helps when you give the shelf a little "slap" at the place where the filter is fitted.

a.) Dipped ones. If you need to clean the inside of the glasses when fogged up ( a common problem ) or to convert them to UK specs or the other way around you have to turn the deflectorplate around and take the lamp apart as shown below.

b.) It almost never ever happens that also the other headlamps have fogged up glasses, but if that is the case it is impossible to take off the glasses without braking them. So you have to be inventive with a piece of ironwire and some cotton wool as shown in the pics below. To take of the oily fog it is best to use spirit.

c.) The SZ / RZ dipped head lamps give poor light, but better NOT to use those ultra bright / ultra white etc. bulbs in your lamps, because they can fry the reflectors or tan them brown and make them useless !!

d.) If you need to adjust the dipped headlamps, than first loosen the top bracket that keeps the lamp in place, otherwise it is almost impossible to adjust the lamps properly and you will probably brake / damage the plastic plugs where the adjusting screws are going trough. After adjusting you have to bend the bracket back on the right place carefully, without tension on that bracket. ( otherwise the lamp will change its position and has to be adjusted again ).

The little plastic parts - where the screws to adjust the lamps go trough - I have in stock. Often they are broken and not for sale anymore.

a.) If you have cooling problems in normal circumstances,..please check first if the electric cooling system is functioning correctely,...the fan sender ( the terminals can corrode ),...but also if the relay is still functioning and if the red + wires goiing to the little black +connection box on top of the fender is not loose or corroded... The cooling fan should switch on just over 90 degrees and then cycle on and off.
b.) The SZ / RZ's engines tend to run hot not because of the capacity of the cooling system but because of the fact that the heat can not go anywhere.... the engine bay is almost a closed box and there is almost no flow of air over the engine. SZ / RZ drivers did try various things to make it more open, such as taken away the polyester plate under the engine,... or opening the fake "louvres"

d.) Also a few register members have mounted an engine oil cooler to help keep things cooler. This one keeps things cooler upto 20% and the termostat from the cooler will open at 70 degrees Celcius.

f.) If the igniton key is turned off there can be situations that the temperatures can rise too high, because of the fan is not able to work with the ignition off. To avoid this, you could make a little modification. Looking under the hood there are 2 relais sitting on the left side... one of them is for the electric fan ( sometimes they are swapped over, so you have to try it out wich one it is )...take the pink coloured wire ( sometimes other colours have been used ) out of the connector under the relay ( tape it off ) and make a new red + wire to the little black + connectorbox on top of the fender ( see pics ),...to be sure,..place a 15 amp. fuse in between that wire.

h.) From Stefano Borin - racing a modified 24 valve SZ - I got the following modification: to give the airintake more air and to keep things a bit cooler "behind the front bumper" he made the holes left and right from the radiator bigger. I personally think it does not disturb originality too much.

On the Dyno the most original SZ / RZ engines will give 190-220 HP. So before tuning check first how much the engine is giving. In many SZ/RZ's you can feel that the clutch is slipping when you do a quick gearshift at high revs. Sometimes you can feel it when driving away fast in 1 st. gear.
First thing most people do is take out the old clutch plate ( not available anymore via Alfa Romeo, and it had another part number than the ones been used on the 75,... I think only the friction material is different ) and pressure group to renew it.
BUT,....before you take out the plate etc,...test first 2 other things:
1.) The master clutch cylinder, often the inside gets dirty or the rubber parts get deformed over the years. That causes problems,....for instance poor return when you lift your footh of the clutch,.. giving the "slippery feeling" from the plate.
Also a good idear to check the slave cylinders function. I still have repair kits for the clutch master cylinder in stock.
2.) There may be oil ( from the gearbox ) ecc. on the plate itself, that makes the clutch slip. If you tested the master and slave cylinders, than you can try the following.... drive away with the clutch as long as possible in a position that it slips till it stinks and smokes ! it is possible that the plate burned clean and your problem has gone ( I managed to do it at my first SZ but after that action there was a dirty smell hanging around the car for several days, but never got clutch problems with that one anymore,.... hahahaha !! )
3.) If 1, and 2 fail, than you probably have to replace the plate and cover with a better one.

Ed, I saw your note about clutches. I found that my clutch could not take the 300bhp of my 3.5 motor, I contacted HELIX the motorsport manufacturer of clutches and found that they already have a uprated clutch for our cars. This was fitted some years ago, no trouble since. first class.

We tested the HELIX set that is "composed" by them especially for the SZ / RZ. The plate is from LUK and the pressure group from SACHS.
This sets does its job perfectely and even better priced than the original set from Alfa Romeo ( Valeo, wich is not available anymore since some years ) for the SZ / RZ.

We took several cars on the DYNO,.... we noticed that the most did have a poor mixture running at top speeds, so it could not hurt to adjust the mixture to make it a bit richer.
Using 95 octan petrol is allowed, but on 98 the engine runs better, and if you had the car chipped than always use 98.

!!!! First a warning is in place: !!!!

SZ / RZ versus Electronics..... I always tell people: " do not fiddle around if there is still a way to get an original part... !!!!"
Sometimes parts can be repaired, but often there will be more destroyed than repaired !!!

I drive Alfa Romeo's over the last 30 years / Zagato for about 20 years / SZ & RZ for more than 10 years, and also some misery from the SZ / RZ world is passing me last years.

Only on the electric front last years:
Burned out relais / clocks / km counters ( often after repairs ! ) / window winder motors / electro magnetic door switches / exploding rear screens because of mishaps in relais or switches / burned out fuse boxes / computers / and as last item: an SZ drivers headlamps, because of using other bulbs ecc.ecc.

Okee, having told that, now about the switches:

Alfa Romeo's solution for this problem was to sell for some time switches without the little lamp ( see picture, left one is an original switch, the middle one is Alfa Romeo's modification without the lamp and the right side one is the best alternative possible.....

The good news is that I have that much, much better alternative available: Never been used switches have been professionally modified with LED's ecc. in almost the same colour as the original lamps. Those sets are containing 3 switches ( 1x to operate the left door screen 2x for the right door screen )

In the years I have done the register I have seen this problem 4 times with members cars but now it seems to occur more often. Suddenly the SZ / RZ's starts steering like a boat !

Check with a little 12 volt lamp if the rear window heating is not still ON, after the switch is set in the off position,...it happened...... and than this can happen !!!

The foam material under the bonnet degrades with time and is not available anymore, but an alternative is.

In 2002 first SZ's had that problem. So we started to look for an alternative. We found almost similar looking material developed special for automotive use .
Similar looking stuff can also be found for other applications like airplane boxes or sound insulation for studio walls, but no one could give any answer or guarantee about heat resistance or oil / petrol resistance ecc.ecc. of that material !! So be aware,... you do not want to have your precious car to go up in flames !!

Than we encountered the first problem: what kind of glue had to be used ? After having tested at least 7 sorts, we found the "Bison Heavy Duty" as coming out as the best solution. The other glues had some nasty side effects, they did "digest" the insulation material itself or even worse they blistered the paint from the bonnet at the inside OR they where not up to the heat of the engine or in other countries the cold climate. They came loose and you do not want to have that happening on a red hot manifold !
Than we did some heat and flame tests, because the bonnet insulation is lying direct on top of the engine on most SZ's. The material came out very well. It could handle high temps and when putting it into a direct flame it would give a very small blue-isch flame after some time, but after taking away the "burner" the flame on the insulation material was extinguished in a short while.

So that was even better than the original stuff Alfa Romeo used. If that is rotten on your car, than take a piece of it and hold it in a direct flame, you will be scared how quick a big yellow flame will come off that material.
To be even more sure we had the insulation impregnated / sprayed with flame retardant stuff. It is not visible on the insulation, but better "safe than sorry".

We tested insulations that where treated in that way and some without the flame retardant stuff. In the end they both did their job. The only extra advantage with the treated material was that it did "suck up" less oily and petrol fumes into the material. Because of that happening most of the original insulations turned dark brown / black over the years and making the original insulation a "time bomb". That rotten stuff, sucked full of oil and petrol fumes / residue burns very well !!

Many tests followed in several countries all over the world to see how climate ecc. had effect on this solution. Also the bonnet insulation was tested under several very hard circumstances. It was used in some SZ's being driven heavily on the track with tuned engines ecc. In those cars it happens that the manifolds ecc. will get red hot.
So over the years we got very confident that we had the best alternative for the old rotten insulation material. It is for me only a bit of a time consuming process to have some made: First I always need to order at least 10 meters, it has to be send to my address, than I have to send it to a company who cut it in the right size, they have to send it back to me and than it has to go to a company who will do the treatment with the "flame retardant stuff"

1.) Open the bonnet, put a sheet or something over the engine bay to cover up things and to prevent all the crap to fall into the engine bay.
2.) You can pull / scrape off the old stuff and when that is done it is all fallen on the sheet and can be trown in the bin easily.
3. ) Clean as good as possible the bonnets inside, keep the wire and enginebay light on its place.
4.) Buy some double sided tape ( also used to glue carpet ecc. ). Than devide several stripes of that tape over the surface where the new insulation has to come. We will use that tape for the first adhesive.
5.) In between the space between the double sided tape and all around you can use a good glue ( heat resistant )..... In NL we have BISON heavy duty.
6.) If the glue is on place,..than peel off the outside of the double sided tape and carfully place the insulation,..... you can pull left and right a bit on the insulation to get it better in place.
7.) During that process also press the insulation against the glue between the double sided tape.
8.) Than the heavy bonnet comes in use..... put some garden chair cushins or someting like it on top of the engine ecc.
9.) Lower the bonnet on top of the cushins and leave it there for one night,....
10.) Next day the insulation is perfectely on place.

If you have any TechTips that can be used for Alfa Romeo SZ or RZ, I am intrested to know about that.
Please email me if you have a special Tip or solution for a problem,..thanks,...Ed.

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evdbeek@wxs.nl